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Two town halls

Sheffield Town Hall
Sheffield Town Hall
Old Town Hall, Waingate, Sheffield (2023)
Old Town Hall, Waingate, Sheffield (2023) © Simon Hollis

Sheffield is fortunate in having an array of voluntary organisations each committed to safeguarding the city’s heritage – among them (in alphabetical order) Hallamshire Historic Buildings, Joined Up Heritage Sheffield, Sheffield Civic Trust and The Victorian Society South Yorkshire Group.

These bodies are sorely needed because the city’s track record of valuing and conserving its historic buildings is – to put it politely – patchy.  Sheffield is rightly proud of its acknowledged status as the Home of Football, its tradition of craft beers and breweries, the Crucible and Lyceum Theatres and the Sheffield Philharmonic Orchestra and Chorus.

Sheffield Museums tells Sheffield history through its artefacts, and the city’s built heritage includes five Grade I structures and sixty-seven at Grade II*.  The city’s listed buildings range from a 1929 police box, at least five K6 telephone boxes and numerous post boxes to the largest listed building in Europe – Park Hill Flats (1957-61).

Volunteer advocacy and action have played a part in safeguarding empty and decaying buildings across the city.  Within sight of each other across Fitzalan Square stand Canada House (the former Sheffield United Gas Company headquarters), the Creative Industries Institute (formerly the General Post Office) and the new S1 Artspace headquarters (originally an earlier General Post Office, later the Sheffield Stock Exchange and latterly Yorkshire Bank Chambers) – all of them repurposed for future use.

However, the recent losses are manifold:  the Market Tavern, Exchange Street;  the Old Coroner’s Court, Nursery Street and the Wiley & Co façade, 23-25 Haymarket were demolished within twelve months in 2024.  None of them were listed, and the Market Tavern was owned by the City Council.

The City Council has in the past had much to answer for, but it can’t print money.  One of the notorious cases of neglect is the Old Town Hall, which the Council has never actually owned.  It has suffered continual neglect since it was sold by its historic owners, the Sheffield Town Trust, in 2000.

Nigel Slack, chair of the Victorian Society South Yorkshire Group, wrote in its January 2026 newsletter that refurbishing the Grade I-listed “new” Town Hall after thirty years of minimal maintenance will cost between £320 and £420 million, which creates concern that the limited municipal support for historic buildings will effectively dry up.

In the same month, Sheffield’s online news outlet, The Tribune, ran an article by Dan Hayes, ‘Are we England’s friendliest city?’, pointing out that the city has at least 249 “Friends” organisations, whereas Nottingham has only five.  Alongside an estimate that if the volunteers’ effort was rewarded at the level of the current minimum wage it would cost well over £2 million a year, Dan pointed out the social benefits of the camaraderie which volunteers enjoy while contributing thousands of hours of their free time. They enjoy what they do pro bono, and their neighbours benefit from the results of their labour.

The City Council has encouraged local voluntary groups to take care of heritage assets since the early 1990s, but as funds dried up, so did the amount of practical support that the volunteers received, yet they carried on.  Different groups, from the Wadsley and Loxley Commoners to the Friends of Wardsend Cemetery and the 100-acre Shire Brook Valley Nature Reserve, enrich their locality in differing ways, because they have attracted enthusiastic individuals who have bonded through a common purpose.  One project officer describes the volunteers as “the life and soul of the site”.

Some groups have more frustrations than success: the Friends of the Old Town Hall have doggedly monitored the building’s decay since 2014 and any practical rescue scheme will be built on the foundation of their efforts.

A trustee of one of the organisations not mentioned here wearily commented that it seemed government policy to let charities run the country.  Scepticism in these circumstances is understandable, but it’s the spirit of bonhomie that will carry forward popular efforts to safeguard the local heritage.

Nevertheless, before the current cohort of volunteers feel their age, they need to encourage younger people to join in and offer their energy.

That’s the vital challenge that must be addressed alongside the fundraising and the myriad practical tasks that keep the environment healthy.

Demolished Sheffield illustrates some of the Sheffield buildings that have been demolished since the mid-1970s, alongside others that remain but face an uncertain future.

Sheffield’s historic buildings have been retained or rescued in times past by citizens alert to their value, but much has been lost, and some of it is regretted.

Mike Higginbottom’s text draws attention to some of the reasons why much-loved landmarks bite the dust, and queries whether some of them could have had a future.

In particular, the book gives examples of surviving buildings that fall beneath the radar of listing and conservation-area status but can make an important contribution to the townscape and to community well-being.

Demolished Sheffield has 112 A4 pages in full colour and features twenty-seven sites across the city, and one in the Borough of Rotherham. 

For details please click here.

To purchase, please click here, or send a cheque for £20.00 per copy payable to Mike Higginbottom at 63 Vivian Road, Sheffield, S5 6WJ.

Contact:  0114-242-0951 or 07946-650672 or mike@mikehigginbottominterestingtimes.co.uk

American Church Berlin

Luther Church, Schöneberg, Berlin, Germany

Public transport in Berlin has several layers. 

There are buses, though in two visits I’ve only ever boarded one.  Rail is faster and more comfortable – trams in the former East Berlin, alongside the U-Bahn (underground railway) and the S-Bahn (overground railway).  Some services duplicate each other’s routes in places, and I found it easier to rely on signage at stops and on vehicles than to try to interpret the incompatible maps.  Ticketing is simple:  the day ticket [tageskarte] offers the run of the system.

I like to take time in any big city simply to hop on a bus, tram or train and see where it goes.  Serendipity takes over at such a point. 

With a couple of hours to spare one afternoon I took a westbound U2 train, trusting that I’d see something interesting when it eventually surfaced outside the central area.  Sure enough, shortly before the train entered Bülowstraße station it passed close by a spectacular brick Gothic church. 

The line went underground shortly afterwards, so I left the train at Wittenbergplatz and backtracked.  Bülowstraße station is a fine Art Noveau structure dating from 1902, part of the city’s first U-bahn route, designed by Bruno Möhring (1863-1929). 

Train services were severed when the Berlin Wall was built, and subsequently the station opened in 1980 as a bazaar and music restaurant which became a vibrant centre for the city’s Turkish community.  The tracks within the trainshed were covered over, and for a few months a vintage streetcar shuttled along the viaduct between Bülowstraße station and a flea-market at Nollendorfplatz station.  The station reopened in 1993.

The tall spire of the church I’d spotted is immediately visible from the street outside the station, though the building itself is difficult to photograph because of the surrounding trees.

It was originally built as the Luther Church [Lutherkirche] (1894), a rich and complex design by Johannes Otzen (1839-1911).  It’s a cross between the Scandinavian Church in Liverpool and the Midland Grand Hotel at St Pancras. 

The external detail is of the highest quality, though it’s one spire short of a full set of turrets because of wartime bombing, and the interior, rebuilt in 1958-59, is simple and tasteful:  American Church in Berlin – Church in Berlin (foursquare.com)

The church is occupied by the American Church Berlin [https://www.americanchurchberlin.de].  Their pre-war building at Nollendorfplatz was destroyed in 1944, though a vestige survives as a monument. 

If ever I return to Berlin it’ll be at the top of my list to revisit, preferably in the morning when the sun will be better placed, and if possible in winter when the trees are bare.

The Leawood Pump

Leawood Pump, Cromford Canal, Derbyshire

There are two reasons why the Cromford Canal terminates at Cromford:  Sir Richard Arkwright was prepared to invest in the waterway in order to secure cheap, easy transportation for his cotton mills, and he had built his water-powered factories at Cromford to take advantage of two reliable sources of water – the Bonsall Brook and the Cromford Moor Sough, a lead-mine adit draining the ore-field below Wirksworth.  Its water emerged at a constant year-round temperature of 52°F so that the upper section of the canal hardly ever froze in winter. 

Sir Richard Arkwright would have preferred the canal to take water from the River Derwent above Masson Mill, presumably to protect the supply to his mills at Cromford.  Instead, after the sough-water had powered the mills it entered the canal through a culvert at Cromford Wharf, later supplemented by an open channel to a second basin.

Soon after the opening of the Cromford Canal, reservoirs were constructed at the watershed between the Amber and Erewash Valleys, at Butterley, Butterley Park (drained in the late 1930s) and Codnor Park, to supply the Nottingham Canal by way of the flight of locks from Codnor Park to Langley Bridge.

The lead miners ultimately needed to extract ore from below the level of the Cromford Moor Sough and in 1772 began to dig the Meerbrook Sough, a lead-mine adit which drains into the River Derwent just north of Whatstandwell.

When the Meerbrook Sough opened circa 1836 it deprived the Cromford Canal of the dependable supply of thermal water from the older Cromford Moor Sough, and obliged the Canal Company to construct the Leawood Pump

Designed by Graham & Co of Elsecar, South Yorkshire and completed in 1849, the pump is a Cornish-type engine located beside the aqueduct over the River Derwent, lifting water thirty feet from the river during the weekend hours when the water-mills downstream were closed. 

The stone chimney, 95 feet high, has a cast-iron crown with a Venturi device to improve the draught. 

The existing locomotive-type boilers were manufactured by the Midland Railway and installed in a specially built extension to the engine house in 1904. 

After years of neglect the engine was restored to working order in 1979.

The pump house is open to visitors from Easter to October:  https://www.derbyshire.gov.uk/leisure/countryside/countryside-sites/wildlife-amenity/leawood-pumphouse.aspx.